2055 - Wool Melton Unstructured Jacket - Navy

An unstructured jacket gives the maker nowhere to hide. Strip out the lining, the interfacing, and the shoulder pads, and all the scaffolding that normally holds a jacket's shape disappears with them, which means the silhouette has to come from the pattern itself and from how carefully the thing is sewn and pressed. Get it right and the jacket follows the body and moves like a shirt. Get it wrong and it looks like a bag. Full Count builds this one to proper tailoring specifications, with a three-roll-two front, where the lapel rolls past the top button to the second and leaves that top one hidden in the fold, and functional buttons on the sleeves.

The fabric is a thick, high-quality wool melton, woven and then heavily fulled so the surface closes up and the cloth holds its own structure, which is exactly what an unstructured jacket needs standing in for the canvas it does not have. That same process keeps it soft rather than board-like, so it wears comfortably from the first day. Produced in limited quantity.

• 90% wool / 10% nylon
• Wool melton
• Unstructured construction with no lining, interfacing, or shoulder pads
• Three-roll-two button front
• Functional sleeve buttons
• Limited quantity
• Made in Japan

A variance of +/-.5" is within tolerance.

Fit Notes: Shop owner Tommy is wearing a size 42 in this piece. This is a roomier cut similar to the chore coats. He could also wear a size 40, but for layering purposes, chose to go with the 42. We recommend sticking with your normal size on this one. Tommy is 5'9," 160lbs, with a 41" chest.