3102SB-WMB - Sweetbear 3 Wool Melton - Black

Melton is the interesting move here. The cloth comes out of Melton Mowbray in Leicestershire, where it was woven for hunting coats and later picked up by navies for the same reason: woolen yarn, woven loose and then fulled until the fibers lock together, which produces a dense, wind-stopping face with a short nap and almost no drape to it. Taking a coverall pattern and cutting it in that cloth changes what the garment is for. The shape still reads workwear, the weight and the warmth put it squarely in outerwear, and black melton has a formality to it that a chore coat in cotton never gets near. Most melton on the market is cut with nylon or polyester to bring the price down. This is all wool, unwashed, so it arrives at full loft.

The pattern is Sweetbear, Post O'Alls' run at folding Sweet-Orr and Black Bear, the two names at the top of any vintage coverall conversation, into one garment. Both are known for the same detail, a chest pocket set on a tilt rather than square to the body. Version 1 ran raglan sleeves with a collar band and chin strap, Version 2 went to set-in sleeves and kept the band and strap, and this third version drops the collar band entirely, which makes it the loosest and easiest of the three.

• 100% wool melton
• Unwashed
• Set-in sleeves
• No collar band
• Made in Japan

A variance of +/-.5" is within tolerance.

Fit Notes: As with most Post O'Alls fits, these are on the roomier side. From a majority of Japanese brands, Tommy is not able to wear mediums...but this fit with even a little extra room. For us, that is the intended fit of the brand and how we would choose to wear nearly every piece. The arms have extra room and the body is the perfect size to be able to layer one of their other tops underneath. We would recommend sticking with your true size unless you're looking for a trim fit, then you may consider sizing down. Tommy is 5'9," 160lbs with a 41" chest.